Engine > Replace Clutch Linings
Special Tools and Linings
In order to replace the clutch linings you need of course new linings and some special tool to compress and hold the clutch spring. That special tool is a must and not really an expensive one either. Despite that you may do it the hard way: compress the spring by using an old 50ccm piston and a bench vise. But be ready for some fiddeling around to correctly center the new linings. NOTE: all new linings have to be immersed in transmission oil over night in order for the cork material to soak up the oil properly. Otherwise the clutch won't work very well.
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Coupling Case
Jack up the Vespa correctly and take off the rear wheel. Make sure the area around the coupling cover is free of any dirt that may fall inside the housing when removing the cover. Now you have to drain the transmission before removing the brake anchor plate. You can't open the lower screws of the coupling plate without the anchor plate removed. If you have an open drive shaft bearing at the anchor plate side you MUST drain the transmission, otherwise it would simply flow out through the bearing. If you already set a drive shaft bearing with the anchor plate side closed it depends on the level of transmission oil filled in as well as the locked position of the engine if oil may run out over the edge of the opened case. Unclamp the clutch control cable from the lever, remove all screws for the coupling cover and lift off the cover.
Remove Clutch Pressure Plate
Now you can see the clutch plate with a spring clamp in the middle. In order to remove the clutch plate, use a small screw driver to carefully pull out the spring from the wider hole and lock it with its end inside the hole. Locking the spring wire will positively support you again when inserting back the clutch plate.
Remove Clutch
Firstly bend back the locking part of the washer in order to be able to turn and open the center nut. Either you use a special tool to lock the coupling cage and open the center nut with a no. 19 wrench or you don't lock the coupling cage and use an impact driver. The thread is an ordinary one which opens counterclockwise.
To get the clutch off the gear shaft you have to use a special tool which is a clutch puller. Again not an expensive tool that can be ordered at various Vespa dealers onsite or online. Thread in the clutch puller into the clutch and tighten the center screw of the tool. This will force the clutch to come off the gear shaft. Now remove the clutch out from the coupling cage. Might become a bit of a fiddeling work but it is possible. Once more pay attention to the woodruff key that sits on the gear shaft! Don't let it fall inside the gear box or you will spend a hell lot of time to search for it with a rod magnet or something similar or as a last resort you may have to split the engine halves!
Open Clutch
Attach the special tool needed to compress and hold the clutch spring. Now turn the bolt and compress the inner spring all the way.
By that you release the pressure from the clutch linings and you can remove the snap ring and the capping.
Reomve the single discs that separete the linings from each other one by one and put them aside, preferably in the same order.
Reassembling Clutch
Reassemble the clutch again using new linings (remember to immerse the cork in oil over night). Separate each lining again with a disc. Set the capping back and lock it all again with the snap ring.
Adjust Clutch Linings
Carefully align the clutch lining 'teeth' in order to ensure a smooth reassambly into the coupling cage. Lock the aligned lignings by opening the special tool again. Check again that all the 'teeth' are correctly aligned. If all fits well you can remove the special tool.
Clutch Assembly
Position the gear shaft in a way that the woodruff key can't fall out. Now fiddle the clutch back into the coupling cage but be very very careful to not drop the woodruff key!
Position the locking washer back in place, tighten the nut (impact driver recommended) and bend back the locking pin.
Closing Coupling Case
Position the clutch plate and lock it again with the spring clamp. ATTENTION: it is often forgotten to clean the seal face and make them greasefree. Always use a new gasket and preferably sealing compound.
Reassamble the remaining parts such as break anchor plate with a new gasket, add wheel, connect the control cable back to the break arm and do not forget the cotter pin for the wheel nut. Refill with new transmission oil and the job is done.